Vieques Island & Finca Victoria

Just returned from my second trip to Vieques Island where I finally got to stay at Finca Victoria, a property that has been on my list for years. If you’ve never heard of Vieques, don’t be surprised. It’s still one of the best kept secrets for hidden-gem off-the-beaten path beach vacations. Finca Victoria is the ideal place to stay while you are exploring the vast and practically deserted beaches of Vieques Island.

Located between the American Virgin Island of St. Thomas and Puerto Rico, this 20 mile long by 3 mile wide island has an interesting history. The U.S. used this island as target practice for bombers for 6 decades. In 2003, George W. Bush agreed to stop this and remove the military presence, and gave $40 million to improve infrastructure and support tourism.

Today the island is all peace and tranquility. These are some of the most unspoiled beaches I’ve ever come across. And they are deserted. One warning – other than not to wander off into restricted areas where there may still be unexploded bombs – more important to watch for wild horses galloping along beside you while you are cruising in your jeep. Completely safe, English speaking, no-passport-required Vieques is truly a best kept secret.

The main attraction of Vieques are the beaches. The island is only 20 miles long but they have 20 named beaches. That’s one beach per mile – good ratio.

There are also options for some light hiking on the island when you feel the need to peel yourself off your beach blanket.

Trail maker on Tapon Bay Trail
Trail marker on Tapon Bay Trail
You can drive right up to your spot on many of the beaches – ideal!

Vieques Island is ideal for those who don’t mind being a little self-sufficient when they travel. The island has 2 small towns, but no real commercialization. No recognizable hotel brands. No Uber, so plan to rent a car (a Jeep is the only way to go). There are plenty of restaurants, but the best choices for accommodations will include a kitchenette where you can prepare your beach picnics and light supper.

It was perfection for a stay on Vieques. Again, not quite the same full service that you might get at other resorts, but I like it that way. Very much a boutique property (only 14 cabins/cottages/suites) and no kids allowed (but I think dogs are allowed).

Meeshel's Cabin
Meeshel’s Cabin – 2 bd/2 bath with large kitchen

As the name suggests, Finca Victoria is a perfect place to host a yoga retreat. They have a gorgeous yoga shala that is open air so you can inhale the delicious Caribbean breezes and exhale your stress. Clean, high-quality mats were provided.

For those who are just visiting, they offer a free yoga classes daily at 8am. They cater to all levels so this would be the perfect place to take your first or one-thousandth yoga class.

yoga shala at Finca Victoria
yoga shala at Finca Victoria

Naturally, a destination has to be able to keep this foodie satisfied or it doesn’t make my return list. Vieques Island has plenty of restaurants to choose from. There are a handful of seafood restaurants in Esperanza, all with outdoor seating and directly across from the waterfront. Think daily catch fish, ceviche and Mojitos.

In Isabel II on the other side of the island, you will find several Caribbean-level grocery stores and other full-service restaurants.

More importantly, they have several panaderias (bakeries) in Isabel. My favorite is D’Frozz.

  • donuts
  • milkshake

Needless to say, I will be buying less groceries next time I go. Those donuts!!!!!

One of the biggest reasons people go to Vieques is to experience the bioluminescent bay. Vieques has one of only 5 in the world.

This experience involves kayaking out into a bay after dark. It’s very low key, but if you go to Vieques, it’s a must.

You can do a day trip to Vieques from Puerto Rico, but I can’t imagine how you could even begin to get a sense of the place in just one day. And if you go over just for the bioluminescent bay, you’ll have to stay the night as the last ferry back to the main island leaves before the tours finish.

You didn’t think you were going to get a post from me about travel that didn’t have bird photos, did you?

Truth be told, Vieques is so small that they don’t have many lands birds. But I brought my camera anyway.

  • female Antillean Crested Hummingbird
  • bananaquit
  • Slatey Throated Pigeon
  • a gallery of bird photos from Vieques Island
male Antillean Crested Hummingbird
male Antillean Crested Hummingbird

I was hesitant to even share this gem when I originally found it. Thankfully, even after a 9 year hiatus from visiting, things haven’t changed much.

In my opinion, Vieques Island is an ideal spot for a long weekend getaway, especially if you love deserted beaches (I’m talking to you 30A) and if you prefer to cater in versus eating out every meal.

Finca Victoria was a magical haven of peace and tranquility, and I found myself happy to linger on their property with a cold beverage and a good book.

I’ll be back later this year with more updates….

Published by Jenny G

I love life. So much to explore and experience. My world is a circular orbit that revolves around my latest recipe inspirations, books yet to be read and dreams of where I'll travel next. If it's Friday night, I'm probably out in the Dallas arts district enjoying the theatre or the ballet. On weeknights, I'm most likely in my kitchen whipping up a meal I've been thinking about all day. Once Upon a Frittata is a collection of the things I love most in life, and I look forward to sharing the with you.

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